Bridal - The Rise of Pink Diamonds

Recent auction records set by pink diamonds have influenced the bridal jewelry market. While white or colorless diamonds still seem to hold the number one position in terms of consumer choice, we have seen fancy color diamonds infiltrate the market beginning with yellow diamonds about a decade ago. Yellow diamond engagement rings are now widely available. While pink diamonds are more rare than yellow diamonds, the bridal market has slowly been introducing engagement rings and weddings bands with pink diamonds as the center stone or, more often, as accents.

"The Pink Dream"

"The Pink Dream" (pictured above) is the current record holder for a gemstone sold at auction. Steinmetz Diamonds cut the stone over a period of nearly two years and transformed a 132.5 carat rough into a 59.60 carat, fancy vivid pink, internally flawless oval cut gem (the largest internally flawless or flawless, fancy vivid pink diamond that the Gemological Institue of American has ever graded). The stone sold for 76,325,000 CHF (about $83 million USD) at Sotheby's "Magnificent Jewels" sale in Geneva in November 2013. The new owner, Isaac Wolf, renamed the stone "The Pink Dream".  

"The Graff Pink" rough (left) and cut (right)

Before "The Pink Dream" was offered at auction, the record price ever paid at auction for any gemstone was held by "The Graff Pink". Pictured above, the 24.76 carat, fancy intense pink step-cut diamond sold at Sotheby’s Geneva in November 2010 for $46.16 million USD.

Pink diamonds have been mined in India, Brazil and elsewhere, however, today the Argyle mine in north-western Australia is the primary source. Because of their rarity, pink diamonds can be 20+ times the price of an equivalent white diamond. The pink diamonds from Argyle are sold each year via exclusive auctions called tenders. "To put the true rarity of these special ‘pink’ diamonds into perspective, of every million carats of rough diamonds produced at the mine, a mere one carat is suitable for sale in one of these tenders"(reference). With the presence/intensity of color being the most valued characteristic, the grades of pink which exist range from light fancy pink to fancy vivid pink with ‘fancy vivid’ being the highest possible color grade. Many colored diamonds on the market have been treated with techniques such as HPHT (high-pressure, high-temperature). Naturally occurring colored diamonds that are untreated are the most prized. 

Pink diamonds have been creating quite a buzz in the auction world and now that one holds the world record price for a gemstone at auction as of only three months ago, we are sure to see more demand for these beautiful gems! Below are some pink diamond bridal jewelry options. Enjoy!

Graff's "Signature Style" rose gold ring with white oval cut center stone and pavé intense pink diamonds

Soleste 18k rose and platinum ring with white and fancy vivid pink diamonds by Tiffany & Co.

14k rose gold ring with white center diamond and natural fancy vivid pink diamond halo and band by Mark Broumand

18k rose gold with pale pink diamonds by Hidalgo, available at Ylang23

14k yellow gold ring with pink faceted-rough diamond and pavé white diamond accents by Anna Sheffield

 

Rose gold band with natural fancy light pink pavé diamonds by Henri Daussi

18k rose and white gold ring with white center diamond and pink diamond halo and band by Natalie K

Angelina ring in 18k rose gold with natural fancy pink diamonds by Jean Dousset

Natural pink colored cushion shape diamond ring set in platinum by Neil Lane

Vintage Finds - Gypsy Honeymoon (San Francisco)

This afternoon I went into a great local store, Gypsy Honeymoon, which is filled with antiques, mirrors, paintings and curiosities. They also have a beautiful selection of vintage and antique jewelry. I fell in love with the two rings below! Don't live in San Francisco? No problem - Gypsy Honeymoon is going to start selling online soon! Click here for their website and follow them on Instagram @gypsyhoneymoon

14k gold ring with sapphire, diamonds, enamel

Date unknown but appears to me to be Art Nouveau

Love the hand engraving!

14k gold ring with opals, diamonds and a pearl. 1950s

NVIT BLANCHE - Designer Spotlight

Evoking the power of material, process and ornament, NVIT BLANCHE is a reminder of why humans have valued jewelry for thousands of years. In the beauty and rarity of materials, fine craftsmanship, symbolic benefits and spiritual or religious meanings, jewelry is both meaningful and persuasive. David Hines, the designer behind NVIT BLANCHE, is creating fascinating jewelry with an extreme dedication to materials and processes as well as an intriguing temporal quality. By featuring materials that have held significance for years and reviving the legacy of ancient techniques, this jewelry is connecting us to bygone times and places. Below is a snap shot of Hines' work thus far with a few question and answers. Enjoy!

NVIT BLANCHE uses high karat precious metals and stones that have been used in jewelry for centuries, including lapis lazuli, turquoise and coral. Time and care is employed in searching for high quality stones, often harvested years ago (such as the below precious coral). The quantity of material is allowed to determine the number of pieces created. For example, the sleeping beauty turquoise took years to source and once the collection is sold, a new gemstone will be explored. 

Q&A:
TPV: In line with your concern for responsible and ethical sourcing of materials, do you ever re-purpose stones or metals?
DAVID HINES: I often use old stones, which are very often not only more ethical to use given environmental and sociological concerns but higher quality. The old cuts of diamonds reflect different aspects of the stones qualities that were previously treasured over the brilliance and fire they are cut for now. It's interesting to me that as our society changes the qualities desired in stones has changed too. Not just from so-called technological developments.  

SLEEPING BEAUTY TURQUOISE WITH 22K YELLOW GOLD

NATURALLY FORMED MEDITERRANEAN CORAL AND 22K GOLD.

Strict adherence to ancient techniques of creating jewelry is a respectful nod to the legacy of jewelry making. NVIT BLANCHE's Viking collection represents a re-birth not only in style and material but also in process. The pieces in this collection were made by hand in the same manner as an 11th century goldsmith. Despite the "advanced" jewelry making techniques of today, creating the viking style braided rings in the same manner they originally were is a complicated feet. The decision to adhere to these techniques creates a level of connection between the artisans creating these pieces, as well as the eventual owners, with a culture and a people from one thousand years ago. 

Q&A:
TPV: What collection and/or process has been the most challenging in terms of adhering to ancient techniques?
DAVID HINES: The Anglo Saxon braided collection was very challenging to make. The technique appears to be simple twisting but is in fact quite complex. Ours are made in the same method a goldsmith would have employed a thousand years ago and should a time traveling one wander into our studio would have everything he needs to make the ring as it was done in the 9th century.

THREE GAUGE RINGS, FINE SILVER & GOLD

PROCESS PICTURE FROM NVITBLANCHE INSTAGRAM DECEMBER 2013

The Astronomy collection continues the temporal theme in a new way. Similar to a secret message which requires decoding, these "Star Map" rings re-create a piece of the sky as it was on a specific date at a specific place. Highly personal rings, it would be lovely to stack them over time to commemorate events such as weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, etc. Tracking the stars in the sky is an old tradition but wearing them in this way is a totally new one!

20K PINK GOLD AND DIAMONDS LINED WITH PLATINUM

Q&A:
TPV: What stone(s) or material are you working with for your next collection? You have given some hints via Instagram of your interest with 16th and 17th century mourning jewelry. Can you comment on what we may be seeing from you in the future? 
DAVID HINES: I tend to work in multiple series simultaneously which overlap and influence one another. I've been doing the Anglo Saxon braided gold and Astronomy based on accurate star map ones most recently but have several other tangentially related ones in the works. Octahedral diamonds which are how diamonds were first used in rings are part of one and cushion cuts are part of another. I like to have the counterpoints of ancient and modern at play within my collections. Several other ancient and modern techniques will go into these works so a feeling of familiarity will exist while the actual objects are unlike anything else when completed. I don't really like signet or diamond rings for men so I am trying to make a type of ring that combines elements of both into something I do like.

Hines' "Bloody Knuckles" rings (pictured below) won the Platinum Men's Wear award in this year's AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards hosted by the American Gem Trade Association.  
---"These rings are designed to wear one on each middle finger as a pair of bloody knuckles.  As much sculpture as jewelry, they are cast platinum and burnish set with natural rubies weighing 1.00-1.25 tcw. Throughout history hexagons have quietly shown up in nature and art.  The shape of a beehive’s honeycomb is hexagon, a turtle’s carapace, snowflakes and the cloud systems that move over the north polar face of Saturn all use the shape. These rings look to that strength of structure while also evoking the violence of nature."

Bloody Knuckles rings in platinum with 1 ct. t.w. mirror-set rubies by David Hines, Nvit Blanche

Vintage Engagement Ring Trends - Featuring Trumpet & Horn

Trumpet & Horn specializes in Art Deco, Edwardian and Victorian vintage engagement rings that are truly spectacular. Founder Jerry Heidenreich has been in the estate jewelry business for 30 years and thanks to his wife, Kim, began selling online and the Trumpet & Horn brand was born. And we couldn't be happier they did! Jerry and associate buyer, Eliza Ehrlinger, have an incredible eye and knack for discovering irresistible vintage pieces. Believe me, once you check out their website you will be saying what I am, "Keep it coming!"

I asked Trumpet & Horn for their insight into what consumers are seeking the most right now and here is the verdict:

1. Mixed metal rings (usually yellow gold and platinum) and especially with sapphires! 

Monticello is an exceptional Edwardian diamond and sapphire engagement ring in platinum and topped by 18k yellow gold with Old European cut diamonds, rose cut diamonds and triangular cut natural sapphires that are further accented with filigree and hand engraving

 

2. Emeralds! Wow. We can't seem to keep any of these around. In terms of sales, they are honestly more popular than either sapphires or rubies. 

Hyde Park is a classic antique Victorian era engagement ring in platinum and 14k yellow gold with a square Step Cut natural emerald from Colombia and Old Mine cut diamonds.

 

3. Delicate and intricate filigree work especially from the Edwardian era (see photo in #1)

4. Halo rings 

Bucksport is a dramatic Art Deco diamond ring in platinum featuring a center Old European cut diamond and a bold repeating hexagonal halo with diamonds.

5. Old Mine Cut diamonds This category on our site is the most viewed other than just the engagement rings category. People LOVE them!

 

Bishop is an Edwardian engagement ring in platinum with an Old Mine cut diamond and excellent hand engraving.

 

6. Opals These aren't for engagements typically, but for our fine jewelry audience, we can't keep them in stock. The Piedmont ring (below) is one of our most popular rings to date.

Piedmont is a Victorian era ring in 14k yellow gold with 3 oval opals and rose cut diamonds

Trumpet & Horn's website has great photos and most pieces are accompanied by a video so you can really see how these rings glimmer and sparkle! They do a great job of making you feel comfortable buying fine jewelry online with a concierge feature that pops up on your screen so you can chat with a live customer service member. New pieces are added every Tuesday (sign up for their email newsletter to be sure not to miss them!). You can follow Trumpet & Horn on Instagram @trumpetandhorn

 

The Polished Vault favorites: Here are three more rings from Trumpet & Horn that I cannot stop staring at!!!

Bennington is a gorgeous Edwardian ring in platinum with an oval cut natural pink sapphire, Old European cut diamonds, filigree, milgrained edges and hand engraving.

Chelsea is a pristine Art Deco diamond ring in platinum and 14k white gold featuring an Old European cut diamond, blue calibre cut natural sapphires and further encircled by a diamond encrusted oval halo.

Pebble Beach is an 1880's Victorian era engagement ring in 14k yellow gold and silver with rose cut diamonds.

A Curious Late 19th Century Egyptian Scarab Beetle and Brazilian Coin Necklace

Erie Basin in Brooklyn has an incredibly interesting assortment of antique jewelry and engagement rings, thanks to the keen curatorial eye of owner Russell Whitmore. The below necklace attracted my attention. I love the play of the iridescent blue-green from the beetles with the matte silver of the coins and chain but even more intriguing is the unexpected mix of objects and motifs.

Scarab beetles nod to Egyptian revivalism while 1860-1890s Brazilian coins nod to ancient Greek and Roman archaeological jewelry. Whitmore discovered the necklace in Switzerland and believes that it was assembled from souvenirs of world travel in the 1890s as these types of souvenirs were important status symbols in the Victorian era, even if they didn’t quite make sense together.

Scarab beetles have been used as amulets and seals since ancient Egypt, as early as the Old Kingdom (2613-2160 BC), as symbols of rebirth and representations of the god Khepri. The use of coins in jewelry dates back to ancient Greece, Rome and Byzantium. The use of coins in this necklace probably references the owner's opulence and exotic world travel. It is confusing that these two symbols, seemingly unrelated, would be paired together in this necklace but that is what makes it an engaging, curious and personal story!

The underside of the settings for the scarab beetles is unexpectedly bold and you can see where the hidden clasp is built underneath one of the coins (flat silver surface).

Photos courtesy of Erie Basin. Be sure to follow Erie Basin on Instagram @eriebasin

Links:
https://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/articles/e/egyptian_scarabs.aspx
https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/erev/hd_erev.htm

The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950–1990

If you are in San Francisco I highly recommend visiting the de Young Museum before the Bulgari exhibit closes on the 17th (only one week left!). Nearly 150 pieces of jewelry bring the visitor on a decade-by-decade tour of the Rome-based jeweler's innovations in jewelry design from 1950 to 1990. The stunning jewelry is accompanied by great contextual descriptions of inspiration and techniques as well as large scale scrolling image projections of jewels and various celebrities and notorious figures wearing Bulgari throughout the decades. Overall, I was impressed with the number of cabochons in one space - they were everywhere!

Pendant/Brooch, 1958. Necklace, 1962. Platinum with emeralds and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari Heritage Collection. Photo: Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte Roma https://deyoung.famsf.org/deyoung/exhibitions/art-bulgari-la-dolce-vita-beyond-1950-1990

Visitors seemed to spend the most time in the room hosting pieces from Elizabeth Taylor's collection. While her emerald and diamond necklace and pendant/brooch (pictured above) from Richard Burton were particularly incredible to see in person, my favorite room in the exhibit was the one dedicated to Bulgari's work from the 1970s. You could blatantly see the departure in design and intention from the more royal-worthy jewels Bulgari had been producing until this time to ready-to-wear items. The sautoirs (a French term for a long necklace that suspends a tassel or other form of ornament) in particular were stunning. Weighty gold chains, colorful, playful, graphic and serious statements, here are some of my favorites:

Sautoir, ca. 1973. Gold with yellow sapphire, tiger’s eye, citrines, and diamonds. Bulgari Heritage Collection © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte Roma. http://deyoungmuseum.tumblr.com/post/65462368911/richard-burton-famously-gave-bulgari-jewelry-to

Sautoir, 1972. Gold with yellow and blue sapphires, agate, citrines, and diamonds. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte Roma

Playing Card sautoir, 1972. Gold with coral, mother-of-pearl, onyx and diamonds. Bulgari Heritage Collection. Photo: Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte Roma https://deyoung.famsf.org/deyoung/exhibitions/art-bulgari-la-dolce-vita-beyond-1950-1990

At the very end of the exhibit there is a video outlining the process behind and man hours (some 500+) required to make a sautoir. The necklace featured in the video is displayed next to the television monitor. I thought the nod to the craftsmanship and time needed to produce such perfection was a great way to end the exhibit.
 
My only complaint about this exhibit would be that there were not enough pieces (selfish, I know!). The 395 pieces at the JAR exhibit set some high expectations! And besides, with jewelry more is always better :)

Link to exhibit: https://deyoung.famsf.org/deyoung/exhibitions/art-bulgari-la-dolce-vita-beyond-1950-1990

Jewelry Boxes Worthy of Your Jewels

These luxurious jewelry boxes will keep your jewels organized and protected while adding a touch of glamor to your dresser.

Ercolano:

The Ercolano family has been practicing the art of marquetry in Sorrento, Italy since the 1940s. I love the lacquered wood, playful designs and lock and key closure. These handmade works of art are heirloom-worthy!

 

http://www.barneys.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-BNY-Site/default/Product-Show?pid=00505012826155

http://ercolano.it/index.php?option=com_collezioni&view=collezione&id=12&Itemid=145&lang=en

Jonathan Adler:

The Toulouse jewelry box by Jonathan Adler features a hand finished exterior with a marbled oil effect, vibrant orange color and complimentary gold hardware.

Tiffany & Co.:

This classic leather jewelry box has palladium-plated solid brass hardware and a lock and key closure. Available in black or Tiffany blue. 

Scully & Scully:

The octagonal shape of this handmade jewelry box is really unique. The luxurious features include stingray leather, sycamore and ebony veneers, solid bone edges and gold-plated hardware.

Kelly Wearstler:

Boasting serious retro appeal, each one of these hand carved oak boxes is a limited edition and signed by Kelly Wearstler.

Spinelli Kilcollin - Designer Spotlight

Dwyer Kilcollin and Yves Spinelli are designing beautiful and interesting jewelry out of the their Los Angeles studio. Characterized by dialogue between materials and components as well as interaction with the wearer, here are two of my favorite styles from the Spinelli Kilcollin collections.  


The collection of interlocking rings was the first Spinelli Kilcollin jewelry I came across and I immediately fell in love with how the design plays on tension and space. Each ring in the set not only relates to the rings around it but also with the wearer, begging the question of whether to be worn on one finger or across multiple fingers. The smaller rings provide a sense of confinement when the piece is worn on one finger but they simultaneously represent the ability to expand across the hand. This dialogue between the small and large rings creates a beautiful sense of tension and malleability. 

Nova Pavé ring. Gold plated in black rhodium, mixed gold connectors and micro-pavé set cognac, champagne and white diamonds.

Vela Pavé ring. 18kt yellow gold, mixed gold connectors and micro-pavé set cognac, champagne and white diamonds.

Vega Gold Pavé ring. Silver, two plated in black rhodium, yellow gold connectors and micro-pavé set grey and white diamonds.

The Atlantic necklace, below, is part of the SK Pearl Collection and, similar to the above rings, can be worn multiple ways. When worn twisted (top image) the feeling of tension is greater than when when worn with the three strands (bottom image). I love that the wearer has the control and ability to transform both form and aesthetic. The use of fabric (silk in this case but they also work with leather) compliments the notion of tension as it has a breathable quality but also constricts by acting as the "setting" for the pearls and hematite.

Pictured here in "Steel". Silk, black and silver freshwater pearls from 5mm-11mm, 11mm hematite, tarnished sterling silver toggle clasp. 

Spinelli Kilcollin designs are cohesive and dynamic - the perfect addition to any jewelry collection!

Photos courtesy of Spinelli Kilcollin. For more about Spinelli Kilcollin, including where to purchase their jewelry, click here