Marla Aaron Jewelry - Designer Spotlight

Marla Aaaron, the jewelry designer behind Marla Aaron Jewelry, has a serious skill for mixing colorful gemstones, beautiful metals and encouraging us all to stack! She even makes the pieces accessible in the sense that they could be worn every day.

We are all familiar with wearing multiple bracelets and rings, the idea of wearing a stack of jewelry on the ear is a new and exciting twist on the current trend of ear cuffs. Stacking jewelry involves collecting over time and can hold a similar emotional tie as the charms on a charm bracelet. How fun is it that you can extend this to your ear?!
Below is a snap shot of Aaron's work thus far with a few question and answers (including some sneak peeks on new styles!). Enjoy! 

Q&A: 

TPV: What was the inspiration behind the Cufflings collection? The ear cufflings are especially unique!

MARLA AARON JEWELRY: All of my jewelry is essentially inspired by something that I want and can't find or something that I find beautiful and want to try and execute. I love solid metal--the way it looks --the way it feels. There is something incredibly special about a solid piece of metal and how it picks up the warmth of the skin--whether it be silver or gold or brass. I had also been obsessing about this idea of finding ways to wear precious colored stones in a decidedly unprecious way. Typically when you see colored sapphires or other stones their settings tend to be these very classic immovable jewelry pieces. I wanted to rethink that into something stackable and wearable dressed up and dressed down. After I created the Cufflings it then occurred to me that they would make unique ear cuffs and hence by mirroring their shape and adjusting it slightly so they could "hug the ear" the Ear Cufflings were born.

TPV: How do you wear your Cufflings? 
MARLA AARON JEWELRY: I stack them, mix and match them and most importantly I rarely take them off. I made myself a very special one with emeralds and diamonds from a necklace my grandmother gave me and that one I never take off.

TPV: Which metal has been the most popular for Cufflings? And, where can people buy them?
MARLA AARON JEWELRY: So far it's a tie between brass and silver. We'll see what happens when the first all gold Cuffling comes out in a couple of weeks. They can be purchased at Gary Graham's Flagship store in TriBeCa in NYC, Love Adorned in NYC and soon in the Hamptons and Kickpleat in Austin, TX.

   

TPV: What are you currently working on?   
MARLA AARON JEWELRY: As popular as the Cufflings are, my work began with my lock series cast in precious metals and those continue to be my most popular items. In the coming months I'm going to be introducing some new locks which I'm very excited about that continue to play on the idea of "convertible jewels". Additionally, I am continuing to develop the Cuffling collection by including some new stonework and enamelwork--those will be out in the next few weeks. And a super secret ring project also is about to be released. Finally what I love most about my collection is meeting the amazing women who wear my pieces and in the coming year I want to find a way to celebrate them in in a project related to my work.  

TPV: Any stones or metals in particular? 
MARLA AARON JEWELRY: I love all metals, gold, silver, brass, platinum, palladium--copper. I will continue to experiment with many different metals--but if you force me to choose my absolute favorite is 20K yellow gold for it's particular color and softness. 

Trending - Tiaras

It looks like tiaras are slowly making a big comeback in the wedding world. I still have not gotten over how perfect Margherita Missoni's silver tiara was at her wedding in 2012. 

http://www.vogue.it/en/people-are-talking-about/parties-events/2012/06/missoni-wedding#ad-image204672

And last week, this happened - Irene Neuwirth let us all in on the incredible tiara she created for Joanna Newsom's wedding to Andy Samberg. Opals, emeralds, diamonds, flowers, asymmetry, oh my! Hopefully we will get a picture of the bride in this stunning jewel.

Photos: Irene Neuwirth Jewelry Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?id=67604112658&story_fbid=10152021450902659

As featured in Town & Country Weddings magazine

Want to wear some jewels in your hair? Here are some new, vintage and antique options:

- Silver and 14k Gold Tiara with Rose Cut Diamonds from Lyppens Langebrugsteeg available from 1stdibs
 

Front view http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/more-jewelry-watches/more-jewelry/silver-golden-tiara-surrounded-rose-cut-diamonds/id-j_113409/

Side view http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/more-jewelry-watches/more-jewelry/silver-golden-tiara-surrounded-rose-cut-diamonds/id-j_113409/

 
- Antique Austro-Hungarian Coral and Silver Gilt Tiara, c. 1870 from Victoria Sterling

Front view http://www.rubylane.com/item/518197-TA0512097V/Antique-Austro-Hungarian-Coral-Silver

Back view http://www.rubylane.com/item/518197-TA0512097V/Antique-Austro-Hungarian-Coral-Silver

- Regency Tiara in 18K yellow gold, white topaz and diamonds by Ray Griffiths available from Stone & Strand

Front view http://www.stoneandstrand.com/other/regency-tiara

Side view http://www.stoneandstrand.com/other/regency-tiara

- 19th century Victorian Silver Tiara from Kimberly Klosterman Jewelry

Front view http://www.kklostermanjewelry.com/itemdetails.php?id=3366

Back view http://www.kklostermanjewelry.com/itemdetails.php?id=3366

Pearls with Attitude

One of my favorite jewelry looks from yesterday's Oscars was Portia De Rossi. The Dior earrings and bracelet are traditional, off-white pearls but their style is anything but traditional. 

http://www.justjared.com/2014/03/02/portia-de-rossi-supports-wife-ellen-degeneres-at-oscars-2014/

Inspired by Portia's look, I took to searching for similarly fresh, young and edgy pearl jewelry. Here are some great choices!

18k gold, diamond, river pearls single earring by Delfina Delettrez link for photo and purchase

Ring featuring converted 1890s pin with natural pearls and diamonds set in hand carved wood by Jemma Jewels link for photo and purchase

Grey South Sea Tahitian pearl earrings with onyx, diamond pavé and oxidized silver by Samira13 link for photo and purchase

Cultured, naturally gray South Sea pearls, black diamonds in 18k white gold by Eli Jewels link for photo and purchase

Tahitian pearl set in white gold with pavé white diamonds and micro-pavé cognac diamonds. This is a rolling setting, in which the pearl spins freely. By Spinelli Kilcollin link for photo and purchase

Grey cultured pearl and gold-plated spike short necklace by Fenton link for photo and purchase

Bridal - The Rise of Pink Diamonds

Recent auction records set by pink diamonds have influenced the bridal jewelry market. While white or colorless diamonds still seem to hold the number one position in terms of consumer choice, we have seen fancy color diamonds infiltrate the market beginning with yellow diamonds about a decade ago. Yellow diamond engagement rings are now widely available. While pink diamonds are more rare than yellow diamonds, the bridal market has slowly been introducing engagement rings and weddings bands with pink diamonds as the center stone or, more often, as accents.

"The Pink Dream"

"The Pink Dream" (pictured above) is the current record holder for a gemstone sold at auction. Steinmetz Diamonds cut the stone over a period of nearly two years and transformed a 132.5 carat rough into a 59.60 carat, fancy vivid pink, internally flawless oval cut gem (the largest internally flawless or flawless, fancy vivid pink diamond that the Gemological Institue of American has ever graded). The stone sold for 76,325,000 CHF (about $83 million USD) at Sotheby's "Magnificent Jewels" sale in Geneva in November 2013. The new owner, Isaac Wolf, renamed the stone "The Pink Dream".  

"The Graff Pink" rough (left) and cut (right)

Before "The Pink Dream" was offered at auction, the record price ever paid at auction for any gemstone was held by "The Graff Pink". Pictured above, the 24.76 carat, fancy intense pink step-cut diamond sold at Sotheby’s Geneva in November 2010 for $46.16 million USD.

Pink diamonds have been mined in India, Brazil and elsewhere, however, today the Argyle mine in north-western Australia is the primary source. Because of their rarity, pink diamonds can be 20+ times the price of an equivalent white diamond. The pink diamonds from Argyle are sold each year via exclusive auctions called tenders. "To put the true rarity of these special ‘pink’ diamonds into perspective, of every million carats of rough diamonds produced at the mine, a mere one carat is suitable for sale in one of these tenders"(reference). With the presence/intensity of color being the most valued characteristic, the grades of pink which exist range from light fancy pink to fancy vivid pink with ‘fancy vivid’ being the highest possible color grade. Many colored diamonds on the market have been treated with techniques such as HPHT (high-pressure, high-temperature). Naturally occurring colored diamonds that are untreated are the most prized. 

Pink diamonds have been creating quite a buzz in the auction world and now that one holds the world record price for a gemstone at auction as of only three months ago, we are sure to see more demand for these beautiful gems! Below are some pink diamond bridal jewelry options. Enjoy!

Graff's "Signature Style" rose gold ring with white oval cut center stone and pavé intense pink diamonds

Soleste 18k rose and platinum ring with white and fancy vivid pink diamonds by Tiffany & Co.

14k rose gold ring with white center diamond and natural fancy vivid pink diamond halo and band by Mark Broumand

18k rose gold with pale pink diamonds by Hidalgo, available at Ylang23

14k yellow gold ring with pink faceted-rough diamond and pavé white diamond accents by Anna Sheffield

 

Rose gold band with natural fancy light pink pavé diamonds by Henri Daussi

18k rose and white gold ring with white center diamond and pink diamond halo and band by Natalie K

Angelina ring in 18k rose gold with natural fancy pink diamonds by Jean Dousset

Natural pink colored cushion shape diamond ring set in platinum by Neil Lane

Vintage Finds - Gypsy Honeymoon (San Francisco)

This afternoon I went into a great local store, Gypsy Honeymoon, which is filled with antiques, mirrors, paintings and curiosities. They also have a beautiful selection of vintage and antique jewelry. I fell in love with the two rings below! Don't live in San Francisco? No problem - Gypsy Honeymoon is going to start selling online soon! Click here for their website and follow them on Instagram @gypsyhoneymoon

14k gold ring with sapphire, diamonds, enamel

Date unknown but appears to me to be Art Nouveau

Love the hand engraving!

14k gold ring with opals, diamonds and a pearl. 1950s

NVIT BLANCHE - Designer Spotlight

Evoking the power of material, process and ornament, NVIT BLANCHE is a reminder of why humans have valued jewelry for thousands of years. In the beauty and rarity of materials, fine craftsmanship, symbolic benefits and spiritual or religious meanings, jewelry is both meaningful and persuasive. David Hines, the designer behind NVIT BLANCHE, is creating fascinating jewelry with an extreme dedication to materials and processes as well as an intriguing temporal quality. By featuring materials that have held significance for years and reviving the legacy of ancient techniques, this jewelry is connecting us to bygone times and places. Below is a snap shot of Hines' work thus far with a few question and answers. Enjoy!

NVIT BLANCHE uses high karat precious metals and stones that have been used in jewelry for centuries, including lapis lazuli, turquoise and coral. Time and care is employed in searching for high quality stones, often harvested years ago (such as the below precious coral). The quantity of material is allowed to determine the number of pieces created. For example, the sleeping beauty turquoise took years to source and once the collection is sold, a new gemstone will be explored. 

Q&A:
TPV: In line with your concern for responsible and ethical sourcing of materials, do you ever re-purpose stones or metals?
DAVID HINES: I often use old stones, which are very often not only more ethical to use given environmental and sociological concerns but higher quality. The old cuts of diamonds reflect different aspects of the stones qualities that were previously treasured over the brilliance and fire they are cut for now. It's interesting to me that as our society changes the qualities desired in stones has changed too. Not just from so-called technological developments.  

SLEEPING BEAUTY TURQUOISE WITH 22K YELLOW GOLD

NATURALLY FORMED MEDITERRANEAN CORAL AND 22K GOLD.

Strict adherence to ancient techniques of creating jewelry is a respectful nod to the legacy of jewelry making. NVIT BLANCHE's Viking collection represents a re-birth not only in style and material but also in process. The pieces in this collection were made by hand in the same manner as an 11th century goldsmith. Despite the "advanced" jewelry making techniques of today, creating the viking style braided rings in the same manner they originally were is a complicated feet. The decision to adhere to these techniques creates a level of connection between the artisans creating these pieces, as well as the eventual owners, with a culture and a people from one thousand years ago. 

Q&A:
TPV: What collection and/or process has been the most challenging in terms of adhering to ancient techniques?
DAVID HINES: The Anglo Saxon braided collection was very challenging to make. The technique appears to be simple twisting but is in fact quite complex. Ours are made in the same method a goldsmith would have employed a thousand years ago and should a time traveling one wander into our studio would have everything he needs to make the ring as it was done in the 9th century.

THREE GAUGE RINGS, FINE SILVER & GOLD

PROCESS PICTURE FROM NVITBLANCHE INSTAGRAM DECEMBER 2013

The Astronomy collection continues the temporal theme in a new way. Similar to a secret message which requires decoding, these "Star Map" rings re-create a piece of the sky as it was on a specific date at a specific place. Highly personal rings, it would be lovely to stack them over time to commemorate events such as weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, etc. Tracking the stars in the sky is an old tradition but wearing them in this way is a totally new one!

20K PINK GOLD AND DIAMONDS LINED WITH PLATINUM

Q&A:
TPV: What stone(s) or material are you working with for your next collection? You have given some hints via Instagram of your interest with 16th and 17th century mourning jewelry. Can you comment on what we may be seeing from you in the future? 
DAVID HINES: I tend to work in multiple series simultaneously which overlap and influence one another. I've been doing the Anglo Saxon braided gold and Astronomy based on accurate star map ones most recently but have several other tangentially related ones in the works. Octahedral diamonds which are how diamonds were first used in rings are part of one and cushion cuts are part of another. I like to have the counterpoints of ancient and modern at play within my collections. Several other ancient and modern techniques will go into these works so a feeling of familiarity will exist while the actual objects are unlike anything else when completed. I don't really like signet or diamond rings for men so I am trying to make a type of ring that combines elements of both into something I do like.

Hines' "Bloody Knuckles" rings (pictured below) won the Platinum Men's Wear award in this year's AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards hosted by the American Gem Trade Association.  
---"These rings are designed to wear one on each middle finger as a pair of bloody knuckles.  As much sculpture as jewelry, they are cast platinum and burnish set with natural rubies weighing 1.00-1.25 tcw. Throughout history hexagons have quietly shown up in nature and art.  The shape of a beehive’s honeycomb is hexagon, a turtle’s carapace, snowflakes and the cloud systems that move over the north polar face of Saturn all use the shape. These rings look to that strength of structure while also evoking the violence of nature."

Bloody Knuckles rings in platinum with 1 ct. t.w. mirror-set rubies by David Hines, Nvit Blanche